Peru Trip – Day Six – Cusco to Uros Islands via Puno

Our bus was to leave at 8:30 am – the bus agency had asked us to be there at least one hour prior to departure. We informed the hotel that we needed a taxi by 7 am in the morning and they arranged for one to come by at that time. We woke up early to take a good hot shower and get ready. I was first out and got ready and headed out to the cold terrace to see the sights from the hotel that we paid an arm and a leg (not really) to stay at lol. I was greeted by the sound of a locomotive whistle from the mountainside. I craned my neck left and right but was unable to pick out the train the first couple of minutes, but finally I did just as it disappeared among the buildings. Fortunately for me (and you), I had taken a video while checking out the scene and so was able to catch the train in action, which I realized only after downloading the video on to my laptop.

Cusco countryside with the full moon shining overhead

Lots and lots of buildings all around

In our hotel, we didn’t have a 24-hour receptionist; the person whom we had informed of our need for early transportation had left the building about a half hour after we checked in. Though this person was aware of our need, he had never confirmed that he had in fact asked someone to show up at 7 am. But when it was 6:45 and no one was at the reception, we got a bit antsy as to whether we would have our ride or not. Mrs Porcupyn had the hotel’s whatsapp number, but hadn’t really communicated with them. But now we didn’t have a choice. As a last roll of dice, she messaged them and we were glad that we immediately heard back saying that the driver would show up shortly and knock for us. So we got ready and stood by awaiting the knock.

Fortunately for us, the driver showed up on time, and we were able to inform him not only about the need for our hurry but also that we needed to stop at an ATM to withdraw some money. Within a couple of minutes, we were at the Plaza de Armas and I got some big bills (you will hear more about these in a minute).

One feature I found quite interesting but didn’t quite get around to photograph was these button strips (for lack of a better term) on the pavement. They were across the road in many places to act as mini speed breakers; however, they had strategically removed pairs of buttons spaced exactly a car wheelbase width apart, so if you were to drive in a straight line, you could potentially go straight through without being bothered by them. This photo, of course, is a random photo which does not show those.

By about 7:25, we were at the bus station. It was a veritable beehive of activity, and our first unshielded look at the local population and their standard/cost of living. As soon as we got off the taxi, we needed to pay him the 30 Sols he was promised. Unfortunately, we didn’t have that much in loose change. The smallest bill I had from the ATM – see above – was for 100 Sols.

I looked around; right where we had been dropped off, there were a few shops that were selling food items and asked for a couple of empanadas and a bread item. I thought well, that should be at least 30 Sols or so (that was what we had been paying elsewhere in Cusco and Machu Picchu etc) and she said that would be 15 Sols (or something like that). But she didn’t have change. I felt sorry for the old lady. With the best sign language I could use, I informed her that I didn’t have any cash of a lower denomination. She sent someone off to make change for us. Five minutes later, he came back without change, but then took off in a different direction. Finally, he came back and she was able to settle our accounts, and we were able to settle with the poor taxi driver who had been patiently waiting all along!

For all our fears about being late and missing the bus, we need not have worried. Even though we had been given to understand that we needed to present ourselves an hour before departure, no one showed up at the counter until about 7:45 am. But once the agent came, it was a quick check to verify that our paperwork was all in order and we had the right seats. And soon, there were a few other passengers who also showed up. I did have a niggling doubt that the bus might not leave because there was a clause about the bus needing to have 50% occupancy, which turned out to be a non issue as well.

We had about 30 minutes to kill so first Mrs Porcupyn and Katya, then I walked around looking for stuff to get for the journey. We got some bread, chips, cookies and big bottle of water. It was fun to hear the representatives of the different bus agencies yelling out their destinations to solicit customers. It was a scene that reminded me to India. [I will share a video] I was surprised to learn that the trip from Cusco to Lima was a 22 hour ride – cannot comprehend folks spending so much time on a bus. Train yes, but bus is way more restrictive in movement.

But before we boarded the bus, there was the small matter of paying 1.5 Sol apiece for some tax or something which neither we nor our co-passengers from UK were able to figure out. But once we made that payment, we were permitted to head outside the hall to the bus platform outside. At this time, the weather was pretty nice – neither hot nor cold. Once the bus got there, we got onto our selected seats. We were on the upper deck of the double decker bus. We had not been early enough to get the first two front seats, but we had gotten one front row seat and two seats on the second row. I didn’t see what the seating configuration was like behind us, but the first row was 2+1 ( I was the “1”), and the second row had just two seats, with the space behind me occupied by the stairs to the lower deck. It was very nice indeed.

Within ten minutes, we were passing by Cusco airport headed south. While the tourist area of Cusco was clean, there were places here where the garbage was piled up every block or so, presumably to be picked up by waste management folks. Soon, we left the city of Cusco behind. For the next hour or so, a river kept company with us and far away, we could see the railway line which sometimes came close to the road as well. However, not one train was seen for the entirety of the trip. I now understand that the train from Cusco to Puno does not even ply daily.

Too many to choose from, but we ended up not getting any of these

After about three hours and a half, we had a break for snacks and coffee. I got some photos of some curios available for purchase – we got a wall hanging

I did get a coffee but had a tough time finishing it as it was super strong.

There was a long stretch of this sage (?) bushes on the land that we passed through

Nice passing photo of the countryside and grazing animals

Passing through Juliaca (pronounced Huliyaka), we noticed that the tuktuks (autorickshaws) were completely enclosed unlike those we see in India, which are open to the side

Check out the now-you-see-it-now-you-don’t railbus

Almost an hour after leaving Juliaca, we were entering our destination city of Puno, where we were to be met by a taxi driver sent by our host on Uros Island

The wires mesh on the streets were another reminder of India. I cannot fathom how an electrician would figure out which connection goes where (and/or takes out electricity from which area)!

I liked the murals by the Puno bus station. The signs on the ground were still in the process of being painted and the crew appreciated that we took care to steer clear of them, and raised our carryons over them so our wheels didn’t damage their handiwork.

Murals on the wall from a different angle

The sun sets behind the mountainous terrain of Puno

Night falls on Lake Titicaca and the city of Puno

Shoreline of Lake Titicaca on the city of Puno, as reflected on the glass windows of our lodgings